How to do Barbiecore ponytails, bobs and 90s blow-dries

Halpern SS23

1. The modern up-do

Ballerina buns and sleek ponytails have undergone a refresh this year – from adding plaits to moving middle parts over to the side. Legendary hair stylist Sam McKnight “loved Halpern’s high-octane Barbie-inspired ponytails from the SS23 shows. They’re perfect timing for the upcoming film; I think we’ll see this look everywhere.” There are many ways to achieve this – including mousse, gel or even oil. Sam says, “My backstage secret to the ultimate snatched pony is to use lashings of Modern Hairspray directly into the roots and brush up to secure with a hooked elastic. Works every time.” 

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2. All about bobs

From Hailey Bieber’s big chop to the rise of the ‘curve’ and ‘box’ bob, 2023 is the year of the bob. Hair stylist and salon owner Larry King says, “loads of people are asking for the 90s supermodel bob, which screams quiet luxury.” Hair Stylist Cyndia Harvey, who created runway looks for Jacquemus and Simone Rocha, is also into it. “Almost anyone can pull this off, it’s super versatile. It can be playful, flirty, androgynous.” For cool-girl waves, use a volumising texture spray or for the popular ‘Italian bob’ – think The White Lotus’s Lucia – blow-dry with a round brush to flick out the ends and finish with a smoothing oil.

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Philipp Plein SS23

3. Big 90s blow-dries

“Cindy Crawford-style big, healthy hair is everywhere right now,” says Sam McKnight, who created that supermodel hair synonymous with the 90s. If you have fine hair or struggle to get lift at the roots, Sam says, “apply Cool Girl Foam to damp hair and blow-dry while lifting the roots with a brush. If you really want to amp the volume, wrap sections of your hair around Velcro rollers while still warm and give it as much time as you can to cool. Remove and brush through for big, bouncy hair; it’s a technique that never fails me.

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4. Amazing accessories

2022 marked the rise of hair accessories – from bows and scrunchies to the 90s claw clip – and 2023 is all about going bigger and better. For its SS23 show look, Chanel added glitzy slides to sleek ponytails, while Fashion Week guests were spotted in pearl headbands and OTT logo clips. These accessories are a great way to make simple dresses and suits look special – perfect for wedding season. 

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Simone Rocha SS23

5. Sculptural braids

“Braids are one of the most versatile hairstyles and can be worn in many different ways,” says Cyndia Harvey. “For the Simone Rocha AW23 show, we created sculptural crowns by looping single braids around the head and securing them with a pin.” If you love to experiment with different styles, having a good scalp care routine is crucial, explains Cyndia. “When the normal function of the scalp is disrupted, it can lead to irritation, inflammation and hair loss. Incorporate a scalp treatment, like my very own Scalp Serum, to reinforce the hair.”

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6. The wet look

From red carpets to runways, ‘wet look’ hair is everywhere. But there’s a fine line between ‘I just got out the shower but it’s totally high fashion’ and looking like you got caught without a brolly. Cyndia says, “A true wet look can get messy. When being worn for real life, use a product that looks more wet than it actually is. An oil-based cream or high-shine serum will give you that wet-gloss look without feeling sticky.”

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Zimmermann SS23

7. The 70s are back

Scroll through TikTok and you’ll find millions of 70s-inspired Charlie’s Angels fringes and shaggy cuts worthy of Daisy Jones & The Six. Hair stylist Larry King says there’s a rise in people asking for retro cuts at his salons. “‘It doesn’t get much cooler than a pixie mullet right now,” he explains. “To get the look at home, add My Nannas Mousse at the roots and blow-dry in for volume. Feather out the flicks using a straightener and finish with Velvet Texture Clay to add a grunginess to the look.”

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8. Colour crush

Of all the hair trends out there, hair colour is the most experimental and fun. Whether it’s embracing a full colour change – à la Gigi Hadid’s move to copper earlier this year  – or a more subtle sprinkling of highlights. If you’re a salon regular, it’s important to look after your hair with regular masks and leave-in treatments. And, if a total transformation feels like too much commitment, there are lots of great semi-permanent dyes and glosses to dip your toe into the colour pool. Pink hair for Glasto, anyone?

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