HAPPY BIRTHDAY NEWGEN!

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARCUS BROWN

WORDS BY GEORGIA GRAHAM

Imagine having Alexander McQueen at your first birthday party. Or celebrating your 20th with Jonathan Anderson. How about ringing in your 21st with Martine Rose? For NEWGEN, which financially supports and mentors emerging fashion talent, every year is worth celebrating. Led by Sarah Mower MBE, “NEWGEN is a foundation of London’s reputation as a fashion crucible, which continually produces dazzlingly original young fashion talent.” Since the British Fashion Council launched the initiative in 1993, it has kickstarted designers’ careers, helping them show at fashion week and grow into international brands.

London is the home of countless designers who have ripped up the rulebook. What makes them stand out? “It’s their wild individuality and the fact that this city embraces and uplifts talent from everywhere,” says Sarah. “Right up to now, they’re predicting the future and setting agendas. What’s extremely moving and impressive about the newest NEWGEN generation is that they are activists; they are committed to sustainability, equality and equal opportunity, and that’s something we’re really proud of.”

We meet five of this year’s NEWGEN designers that you can shop at Selfridges this season.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR WORK.

“My work is a hybrid of contrasting elements. Masculine and feminine, vintage and modern, sportswear and luxury, with circular design at the core of the brand.”

MOST LIKELY TO…

“Take an old pair of men’s trainers and transform them into women’s heels.”

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN FIVE YEARS’ TIME?

“Having a bigger team and developing a wider range of products.”

WHICH NEWGEN ALUM DO YOU ADMIRE AND WHY?

“Alexander McQueen – pure genius.”

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE QUOTE?

“Success means that you are living your life to your full potential.”

Shop Ancuţa Sarca

TELL US ABOUT YOUR WORK.

“Influenced by my background as a dancer, I create technical menswear garments that are inspired by movement.”

MOST LIKELY TO…

“Dance at a party.”

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN FIVE YEARS’ TIME?

“I hope the brand continues to grow. This December marks our fifth anniversary, so I hope that in five years’ time, we will be twice as good as we were before.”

WHICH NEWGEN ALUM DO YOU ADMIRE AND WHY?

“There are loads of amazing alumni, but I love Bianca Saunders for her determination. Craig Green, too. Also, Boudicca – I had the pleasure of studying under founder Zowie [Broach] at the RCA. Her wise seeds of knowledge have really stuck with me throughout my career.”

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE QUOTE?

“My mum always says, ‘What’s for you won’t pass you by.’ I love that because it is really humbling. The sentiment is about things happening at the right time.”

Shop Saul Nash

SHOP THE NEWGEN EDIT

Shop now

TELL US ABOUT YOUR WORK.

“I would go as far as to describe Conner Ives as a lifestyle brand – like Ralph Lauren or Donna Karan. My work explores the identity of American female archetypes – assembled from pop-culture references, childhood friends, role models and the like – to depict my unique vision of modern Americana. It’s also nostalgia portrayed in a near-literal sense. Vintage T-shirts, piano shawls, silk scarves, etc are “reconstituted” into new items of ready-to-wear and demi-couture.”

MOST LIKELY TO…

“Be working…”

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN FIVE YEARS’ TIME?

“Hopefully with a bit more time in my calendar for holidays!”

WHICH NEWGEN ALUM DO YOU ADMIRE AND WHY?

“Molly Goddard and Grace Wales Bonner. I love how they create a lifestyle, while also creating wearable and desirable clothing.”

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE QUOTE?

“Things of quality have no fear of time.”

Arriving in October

TELL US ABOUT YOUR WORK.

“LABRUM is a product of experience and heritage, alongside my own personal interpretation. The concept of travel and exploration has been a constant throughout my life, and I apply what I have seen and learned to the LABRUM design ethos. It’s about telling stories and highlighting West African values, combined with British tailoring.”

MOST LIKELY TO…

“Be a people person – someone that connects people – because that’s what I like the most: bringing people together.”

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN FIVE YEARS’ TIME?

“LABRUM isn’t just here to sell clothes. LABRUM is a platform to educate and shine a light on our global community. In the next five years, our commitment is to tell the stories of the unheard across textiles and installations.”

WHICH NEWGEN ALUM DO YOU ADMIRE AND WHY?

“Grace Wales Bonner. The way she brings stories to life on textiles and in her shows is amazing. Also, her collaborations with artists are great.”

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE QUOTE?

“Let’s be realistic and meet people where they are, not where we want them to be.”

Shop LABRUM London

SHOP THE NEWGEN EDIT

Shop now

TELL US ABOUT YOUR WORK.

“DI PETSA explores notions of wetness, drawing parallels between the ocean and the femme experience. The brand’s signature – the illusory ‘Wetlook’ dress – is a symbol of self-acceptance and honouring of our fluid state.”

MOST LIKELY TO…

“Be dancing until the morning, doing full-moon rituals, writing poetry on napkins.”

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN FIVE YEARS’ TIME?

“I would like to have people from around the world connect to the meaning behind our clothes. By that, I mean letting go of shame and embracing the divinity and history of the femme experience.”

WHICH NEWGEN ALUM DO YOU ADMIRE AND WHY?

“Alexander McQueen. For his pure poetic talent and ability to create deep emotion with his shows.”

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE QUOTE?

“‘Water does not resist. Water flows. When you plunge your hand into it, all you feel is a caress. Water is not a solid wall, it will not stop you. But water always goes where it wants to go, and nothing in the end can stand against it. Water is patient. Dripping water wears away a stone. Remember that, my child. Remember you are half water. If you can’t go through an obstacle, go around it. Water does.’ From The Penelopiad by Margaret Atwood.”

Shop DI PETSA