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The Drinks Guide - Grapes
To celebrate National Wine Month, Selfridges’ sommelier Dawn Davies introduces the key grape varieties.
The Noble Varieties
Sauvignon Blanc
This crowd pleaser has its spiritual home in the eastern Loire Valley (but now arguably it could be Marlborough in New Zealand). Both regions produce very different styles: Sancerre with its cooler climate gives grassy, flinty flavours, while Marlborough is all about tropical fruits from warmer temperatures.
Descriptors
Cut grass, gooseberry, nettles, passion fruit, guava, cat’s pee, flint, asparagus. It is always fresh and vibrant on the palate.
Try: Sherwood Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough vs Selfridges Selection Sancerre
Chardonnay
This one can grow everywhere. Alone, it’s fairly neutral in flavour but it works incredibly well with oak (sometimes too well). Its natural home is in Burgundy, where it ranges from nutty to buttery, and Chablis, where it is steely and chalky, but it does very well in the New World too, where it shows a riper, more mellow side.
Descriptors
With oak: buttery, toasty, creamy, melon, stone fruits, pineapple, citrus, nutty. It generally has less acidity than Sauvignon Blanc.
Try: Selfridges Selection Unwooded Chardonnay vs Selfridges Selection Chablis
Semillon
The least well known of the eight, this is the grape variety that, with some Sauvignon Blanc, makes Sauternes famous. It is also the grape that makes the Hunter Valley sing. It is often blended with Sauvignon to give it freshness and can be oaked to add a creamy texture to the palate.
Descriptors
Dry: honey, toast, greengages, apricots and pears.The sweet versions are often affected by noble rot, and honey, dried apricots, barley sugar, beeswax, orange and a very smooth, velvety texture are evident.
Try: Chateau Giraud ‘G de Giraud’ vs Cape Mentelle Sauvignon Semillon
Riesling
It’s known as the king of grapes by sommeliers and wine lovers alike but often people are apprehensive of this grape. Although Riesling can produce some of the greatest sweet wines in the world, the dry wines are are becoming more and more popular. Germany, with its intense, minerally wines with racy acidity, leads the way, with New World regions such as Australia’s Clare valley producing zesty, lime laden, crisp, fresh styles.
Descriptors
Young: lime, floral, peaches, apricot. You often find a mineral note to it.
Older wines: honey, marzipan, petrol, kerosene.
Try: Weingut Gottleman Riesling vs Frammingham Estate Riesling
Merlot
There is a lot of bad Merlot out there, but when well made or blended with grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot can produce some of the best wines in the world such as Petrus. Merlot from Bordeaux tends to be leaner and less overtly fruity than its New World counterparts and is often tempered with other grape varieties. California has embraced this varietal and can produce rich, plummy styles with soft tannins.
Descriptors
Plums, damsons, raspberries, cinnamon, cloves, tobacco, mint, coffee
Try: Chateau Ferrand vs Andeluna Merlot
Cabernet Sauvignon
For the Claret fans in the house this is the most noble grape variety (the Burgundians would not agree). It travels well and can be planted in most areas but Bordeaux’s left bank is where it is most revered. Here in the top chateaux it produces powerfully structured wines. In the New World, where the fruit tends to be riper and more intense, it does very well all over.
Descriptors
Cassis, black fruits, cedar, cigar box, bell peppers (when unripe – vegetal). The tannins are quite grippy and powerful.
Try: Hawks Crest Cabernet Sauvignon vs Chateau Martinens
Pinot Noir
This is the most fickle grape to grow and it rarely reaches the heights of its power outside Burgundy. There it can range from light and delicate, almost ethereal, to dense and brooding, needing years to yield its true beauty. The New World tends to produce more fruity styles emphasising strawberries, raspberries and sweeter tannins.
Descriptors
Strawberries, cherries, vanilla, violets and minerals come through. As it ages, game, mushrooms, leather and woodsmoke start to emerge.
Try: Savigny les Beaune J Fery vs Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir
Syrah/Shiraz
The name will often indicate the style of the wine in the bottle. The Old World tends to use Syrah and in these wines you will find more of the flavours from the northern Rhone with white pepper and red berry fruits. Shiraz is style of the New World, intense dark fruits and rich spices. Both have lovely sweet tannins on the finish.
Descriptors
Blackcurrants, hedgerow fruits, pepper, menthol, Christmas spices, rosemary, thyme, smoky, violets, prunes, dark chocolate, meaty.
Try: Mt Langhi Shiraz vs St Joseph Gonon
Top five to try by Dawn Davies
SHERWOOD, Sauvignon Blanc 2009
£11.99
The Sherwood Sauvignon Blanc displays fresh and lively gooseberry and passion fruit aromas on the nose with richness and concentration on the palate.
SELFRIDGES SELECTION, Chardonnay 2009
was £14.99
now £11.99
From one of the best wineries in the Adelaide Hills comes our unoaked Chardonnay.
CHATEAU GUIRAUD, Semillon 2008
£19.99
This is the second wine from leading Sauternes estate Château Guiraud.
WEINGUT GOTTELMANN, Riesling 2007
£16.99
Nahe is an area to the south west of Germany, the vineyards stretch from the Rhenish slate mountains to the valleys and hills that protect the vines from cold winds and excessive rainfall.
ANDELUNA, Merlot 2007
£10.99
The Andeluna name and label were chosen to symbolise the romance and mystery of the Argentine moon that illuminates the Uco Valley at the foot of the Andes Mountains.
HAWK CREST, Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
£17.99
The Hawk Crest Label is the ‘house wine’ of the world famous Stags Leap wine cellars in Napa Valley.
J FERY,
Pinot Noir 2007
£29.99
This is a really attractive Savigny les Beaune from wine maker Pascal Marchand, who also has a passion for Rum.
MOUNT LANGI GIRAN, Shiraz 2004
£17.99
When you taste a Shiraz blind from the Grampians you will recognise its distinctive taste by one thing, white pepper.
GONON,
Syrah 2005
£31.99
St Joseph is a perfect example of northern Rhône syrah with its black fruits overlaying an intense minerality coming from the granitic soil and a hint of violets appearing on the nose.
SELFRIDGES SELECTION, Chardonnay 2007
was £12.99
now £10.39
Produced by 8th generation winemaker and all–round bon viveur Daniel Seguinot and his daughters, this crisp, dry Chablis is a pleasure to drink.
COCKTAIL HOUR
It is all about wine so has to be a simple spritz with a twist. Try St Germain Elderflower Liquor with white wine or Prosecco. St Germain is an artisanal French liqueur is made from 100 per cent fresh handpicked elderflowers, picked fresh from the Alps during a two to three week period each year. The blossoms are macerated using a special process known only to the producer, then blended with eau–de–vie, cane sugar and hint of citrus to enhance their natural flavour.
Add around 25ml St Germain to a champagne glass and top with Prosecco (adjust to taste). Or do a pitcher of St Germain, a light white wine (Sauvignon Blanc works well) and top with soda.
Email the Sommelier
If you have any queries about cocktails, or wine, contact me at dawn.davies@selfridges.co.uk.
All wines listed are 75cl and all spirits 70cl unless otherwise specified. Stocks are limited and subject to availability. The right to withdraw stock or alter prices without notice if the cost of replacement rises or falls due to fluctuation in supplier prices, exchange rates, duty or VAT. O & E excluded.
