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The Drinks Guide - Portugal
Portugal, for me, holds the greatest promise in Europe for its wines which continue to surprise and delight.
Portugal’s most famous region, the Douro has been linked to Britain since England went to war with France in the 17th Century and turned to the wines of Portugal as an alternative to claret. Families such as Taylor’s still own many of the port houses.
There has been a decrease in sales in the fortified market but the still wines from the region are beginning to grow in popularity. Due to the hot summers the grapes get very ripe and the wines are often powerful and full bodied, but the altitude and moderating influence of the Douro keeps them fresh and vibrant. There is a modern feel to the wines made here and a host of dynamic young winemakers are forging a name for the region’s table wines, so watch out.
As you travel down the interior towards the Douro you reach the hilly region of Bairrada which is as famous for its suckling pig as its wines. You cannot walk into a café or a restaurant without smelling the delicious pork crackling. Bairrada is one of Portugal’s most ancient vineyard sites dating back to the Roman times. Traditional and modern winemaking sit arm in arm here, with international varieties next to traditional varietals like Baga and Maria Gomes. Both styles are turning out some beautifully elegant and powerful wines.
Down in the south of Portugal and inland from the coast lies Alentejo. The climate is very hot during the day but the nights are cold, making the wines surprisingly fresh and light. Alicante Bouschet and Arragones for the reds are popular – attractive, easy drinking fruity wines.
Madeira is Portugal’s almost-forgotten gem. Once it was a mainstay of British society; now we are lucky if we see it for cooking. These fortified wines are fascinating and can live for decades. I recently drank an 1871 Malmsey that was fresh as a daisy. The wines are fermented as still wines; then alcohol is added to stop fermentation at various times to give drier or sweeter versions. They then go through a heating process where they are maderized, giving them that classic nutty, rancio character which makes them perfect to pair with hard cheeses and certain desserts.
Just some of the grapes
| Touriga Nacional | This is the famous grape of the Douro, responsible for the best wines of the region. Dark black fruits are its signature. |
|---|---|
| Alvarinho | or Albarino as it is known in Spain, mainly from the Vinho Verde region. The wines are delicate and fresh with peaches and white flowers. |
| Baga | If you like Nebbiolo this grape is a must-try. Violets, red berry fruits, tobacco but with less aggressive acidity and tannins than Nebbiolo. |
| Antao Vaz | A white wine that does well in Alentejo, it produces full bodied wines with tropical notes and mineral edges. |
| Aragones | Also known as Tempranillo in Spain and Tinta Roriz in the north of Portugal. This grape makes wine with ripe berry fruits and spice. |
Top five to try by Dawn Davies
Meandro, Do Vale Meao
£21.49
A stunning example of a table wine from the Douro, intense structured wine packed with black hedgerow fruit and liquorice.
Vinha Pan, Luis Pato, Bairrada
£39.99
Luis Pato is the king of this varietal. Violets, roses, dried fruits and tobacco are just some of the notes in this wine.
Antao Vaz, Malhadinha Nova, Alentejo
£17.99
Full bodied with ripe tropical fruits, with notes of mandarin and pineapple.
Drink Me, Dirk Niepoort, Douro
£12.99
This is made from a blend of varieties and you should definitely follow the instructions on the label and drink it!
Finest Reserve, Selfridges Selection, Douro
£17.99
A blend of the 2007 and 2008 vintages, this port is intense and packed with plums, raisins and creamy black fruits.
COCKTAIL HOUR
Sometimes simplicity is the best and a Margarita is hard to beat and easy to make. Many people claim to have invented the Margarita, most in Mexico in various bars. Many believe it was named after a woman but what woman is the question!
- 50ml – Blanco Tequila (try Herradura or Calle 23)
- 25ml of Cointreau or Triple sec
- 25ml of lime juice
- Shake all the ingredients with ice and serve in a coupette with salt on half the rim if you like it.
Email the Sommelier
If you have any queries about cocktails, or wine, contact me at dawn.davies@selfridges.co.uk.
All wines listed are 75cl and all spirits 70cl unless otherwise specified. Stocks are limited and subject to availability. The right to withdraw stock or alter prices without notice if the cost of replacement rises or falls due to fluctuation in supplier prices, exchange rates, duty or VAT. O & E excluded.
