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The Drinks Guide - Italy
This is the land of over 1,000 indigenous varieties, 300 DOCs and DOCGs (the Italian equivalent of Appellation Controlee) and in true Italian style it is a confusing mix of styles, grape varieties and wine laws. At the same time, some of the most compelling wines in the world come from this country.
Wine has a long history in Italy, dating back to around 2000BC, and it is an integral part of day to day life all over the country. The wine of each region reflects the food and culture of its people, which is evident as you travel down the long boot of Italy to the Islands.
In the north, shielded by the Alps, regions such as Alto Adige produce wines made from varieties like Noisiolo and Traminer, both floral and fragrant and delightfully fresh. Further south into Piedmont, Nebbiolo and Barbera rule, both pairing perfectly with the famous Alba truffles. Across into Veneto you find the rich powerful wines of Amarone, where the grapes have been picked late and laid out to dry in the ceilings of the winery, giving the wines an intense raisin and prune character. In contrast there is Prosecco with its lively bubbles and fruit salad notes from the Valdobbiadene.
As you move south into the middle of Italy the Mediterranean starts to show its influence more. The wines feel warmer and riper while keeping the classic lifted acidity that you find on all Italian wines. Tuscany is the king of this area and Sangiovese its queen. In wines you will find cherries and leather notes from Chianti to Brunello di Montalcino. This is also the region where the Super Tuscan wines have made their stamp on the market. These wines are at the forefront of Italian innovation. Here traditional techniques have been replaced with modern more French winemaking styles.
Further south you hit the heat of the Mediterranean coast and the islands of Sardinia and Sicily. Here there is a whole host of interesting varietals, from the powerful, dark Negaromaro to the intensely mineral wines of Etna made from Nerello Mascalese, Nocera and Nerello Cappuccio. The whites here include varietals like Fiano, a wine with tropical fruits and creamy tones, and Vementino which varies from quite rich and mineral to light and fresh.
Just Some of the Grapes!
| Arneis | This is Piedmont’s white grape variety, mainly coming from the area of Roero. When made well it has soft stone fruits, almonds and a citrus lift. |
|---|---|
| Cortese | This is the white grape that is responsible for Gavi di Gavi. It makes whites that are crisp and light with a hint of grapefruit on the finish. |
| Pecorino | A variety that almost became extinct but due to a few local winemakers has made a revival. It has a floral, fruity bouquet. |
| Dolcetto | The other big boy of Piedmont, like Dolcetto it is all about cherries and raspberries. It makes more intense wine but with less tannins than Nebbiolo. |
| Barbera | The other big boy of Piedmont, like Dolcetto it is all about cherries and raspberries. It makes more intense wine but with less tannins than Nebbiolo. |
| Primitivo | More commonly known as Zifandel in the States, this is famous in southern Italy, producing ripe fruity wines with a hint of soft spices. |
Top six to try by Dawn Davies
Tenuta San Leonardo, Trentino
£47.99
This is one of Italy’s best Bordeaux blends. It has incredible structure and beautiful elegance of fruit.
G D Vajra, Dolcetto d'Alba, 'Coste et Fossati'
£25.99
Wine is in this family's blood and the passion for winemaking has been passed on through the generations. The Vajra family is known for the quality of the wines they produce in Piedmonte.
Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Planeta, Sicily
£15.99
A blend of two indigenous grapes, Nero d’Avola and Frappato, this is a juicy wine backed with red berry fruits.
Amarone Classico 'Quadretti' La Giaretta
£61.99
At La Giaretta they age the wines for 2 years in oak and then one year in bottle before releasing them, giving the wines a deep red colour with wild berry and soft spices on the nose and palate.
Chianti, Selfridges Selection, Salchetto, Tuscany
£11.99
Cherries and red berry fruits dominate the nose and palate with elegant creamy fruit on the finish.
Vin Santo di San Niccolo, Castellare di Castellina, Tuscany
£27.99
This vineyard and winery is based in the heart of the Chianti Classico region and for the Vin Santo they use Malvasia Bianco and Trebbiano Toscano.
COCKTAIL HOUR
Every year I go to VinItaly, the big wine show in Verona. After spending hours walking through buildings the size of football pitches tasting the good, bad and the ugly, there is nothing better then heading back into Verona to Piazza Erbe and sitting back watching the world go by with an Aperol Spritz. Aperol is the beginner’s version of Campari and is a staple of Northern Italy’s aperitivo hour. It is made from a blend of herbs and has sweetness to it that you will not find in Campari.
- Pour 25ml Aperol – or more depending on taste, over ice
- top with a dry white wine and a dash of soda water
- Garnish with a slice of orange (key). Put your feet up and relax!
Email the Sommelier
If you have any queries about cocktails, or wine, contact me at dawn.davies@selfridges.co.uk.
All wines listed are 75cl and all spirits 70cl unless otherwise specified. Stocks are limited and subject to availability. The right to withdraw stock or alter prices without notice if the cost of replacement rises or falls due to fluctuation in supplier prices, exchange rates, duty or VAT. O & E excluded.
