DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT:

HUISHAN ZHANG

Words: Raymond Yao & Chekii Harling

Join us as we speak to the celebrated womenswear designer about the influence of different cultures on his designs, Chinese New Year traditions and his wishes for the year ahead.

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT:

HUISHAN ZHANG

Words: Raymond Yao & Chekii Harling

Join us as we speak to the celebrated womenswear designer about the influence of different cultures on his designs, Chinese New Year traditions and his wishes for the year ahead.

While studying for his BA in Fashion Design at Central Saint Martins (where he also completed an MA in pattern cutting), Huishan Zhang’s talent was spotted by Delphine Arnault, the Director and Executive Vice President of LVMH, who invited him to spend the final year of his degree working at the Dior haute-couture atelier in Paris.

 

Having honed his skills at the revered fashion house, Huishan wanted to develop his own voice as a designer, launching his namesake label in 2011 to critical acclaim. For the past 10 years, he has been developing his signature style by marrying elements of traditional Chinese design with sculptural silhouettes and couture-level craftsmanship.

 

Huishan’s collections are awash with delicate, feminine details – from pearls to crystals and feathers – so it’s no surprise that women all around the world want to wear his pieces. We caught up with the man himself to talk about the story behind his international success, and how he’ll be celebrating Chinese New Year.

When and why did you fall in love with fashion?

I was in high school in China when I started to immerse myself in fashion magazines and would find myself suddenly transported to faraway places. I was completely captivated by the world of fashion and how it would feed my imagination.

 

What’s the story behind your latest collection?

I focused on the core codes of the brand through a 60s architectural lens with some light-hearted ‘disco fever’ to remind us of better days ahead. The collection feels timeless in these uncertain times, with minimal silhouettes in crepe adorned with crystal trims and tweeds used in a variety of shapes. These pieces are designed to be mixed and matched for a modern wardrobe. 

 

I love China for its beautiful, rich traditions and London for its modernity and multiculturalism.

– Huishan Zhang

Where do you look for inspiration?  

Travelling has always been an enormous source of inspiration for me, as it allows me to observe the women of the world. 2020 completely took away the opportunity to go places, but this pushed me to discover new ways to travel, even if only virtually. I have been re-visiting the Forbidden City virtual archives, which is an endless source of inspiration.

 

How does working between China and Europe influence your work?

I split my time between Qingdao and London, which has allowed me to celebrate the best of both worlds in my designs. I love China for its beautiful, rich traditions and London for its modernity and multiculturalism. Having interned at Dior in Paris and observed haute-couture techniques, I wanted to build a ready-to-wear brand made in China that applied this knowledge and craftsmanship.

Who do you have in mind when you design – who is the Huishan Zhang wearer?

More so than ever, these strange times have enabled me to talk to the women in my life and truly understand what they still dream of and need right now. That is why the latest collection has a lot of interesting daywear, but also some wow pieces that I hope will make women dream of better days ahead. I love to see how varied and international my customer is, and how different cultures will style and interpret my pieces in their own unique way.

 

What are the Huishan Zhang design signatures? 

I have always strived to create timeless pieces with a twist. Whether it’s a tweed jacket with a pearl trim and feather details or a beautiful seasonless gown with haute-couture finishes and dramatic design details.

 

I love to see how varied and international my customer is, and how different cultures will style and interpret my pieces in their own unique way.

– Huishan Zhang

What materials do you work with and where are they sourced?

Just like the brand itself, the materials we use are very much East meets West. There are some fantastic high-quality suppliers in China, which are my go-to for sequins and silks. We also work with some incredible Italian suppliers, and we are paying a lot of attention to the sustainability of the fabric and are currently experimenting with recycled cotton certified by the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI).

 

Where do you see Chinese fashion design going in the next few years?

I believe that Chinese fashion design will become more and more international – it’s exciting to be part of this movement! I am so happy and proud to be one of the first Chinese luxury ready-to-wear designers to have gained an international following. It’s also thanks to the support of Selfridges, which has believed in the brand for many seasons.

 
What are your plans for Chinese New Year?

Honestly, just enjoying the food and being with my family. Traditionally, you are supposed to stay within the comfort of your own home to receive wealth and good luck – which is definitely what we will be doing this year! 

 

I’m looking forward to easing back into normality and being able to spend time with my team, friends and loved ones.

– Huishan Zhang

Where would you recommend celebrating Chinese New Year in London?

If I’m in London, I will always go to Chinatown in Soho to celebrate and feel closer to home. It’s a great place to feel the atmosphere of home.

 
How did you celebrate the holiday last year?

I am usually always in London as it’s close to the date of London and Paris Fashion Weeks, but last year was the early Chinese New Year celebrations – it happens every eight years in January – so it was the first time in so long that I was actually in China for the occasion.

 
What are your wishes for the new year?

More than anything, the freedom to travel again, and coming back to London is at the top of my list. I’m looking forward to easing back into normality and being able to spend time with my team, friends and loved ones.

 

What’s next for Huishan Zhang and what are your hopes for the brand’s future?

Opening some more pop-up stores in China, developing new categories within the brand and thinking about how to celebrate our 10-year anniversary in 2022. 

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