The buyers’ guide to more sustainable denim

The denim sustainability facts

Most denim is made from cotton, and cotton is an incredibly thirsty plant – between 10,000 and 20,000 litres of water are needed to produce just 1kg. Then, add the environmental impact of pesticides and other chemicals used to cultivate non-organic cotton, plus the energy required to turn raw cotton into a pair of jeans. That leaves plenty of room for eco-improvement where your favourite flares are concerned.

By 31 December 2025, all cotton used across Selfridges and in the products we sell will come from certified recycled sources or sources that have been certified as more sustainable. (You can read more about these commitments in our Project Earth 2022 report here). In the meantime, our buyers have plenty of advice for making your denim purchases less impactful on the planet.

What can make denim more sustainable?

“For some of our mainstream brands, using less water is key,” says Womenswear Denim Studio Buyer Grace Neal. “We are working really hard with brands to ensure they focus on this for all future collections.” In our Project Earth for Nature edit, you’ll find brands such as Still Here who are reducing water waste in their denim production. Alongside them, womenswear labels such as Good American and men’s denim brands Nudie Jeans and No.91 work with organic cotton to cut out the pesticides and other harmful chemicals involved in conventional denim production. Nudie also offers a lifetime repair service for its denim, so you can make your favourite pairs last longer.

The vintage denim gems

Discovered in a mineshaft, a pair of Levi’s jeans from the 1880s recently sold at auction in New Mexico for $78,000. No need to grab your pickaxe to find the perfect vintage jeans, though. Increasingly, designers are working with vintage or deadstock (previously unsold) denim to avoid the water waste and pitfalls of pesticides involved in making fabric from scratch.

“We are constantly looking for brands that upcycle vintage denim,” Grace Neal explains. EB Denim, for one, specialises in recycled denim jeans. Based in L.A., the EB team re-stitches vintage pairs into modern cuts and clever spliced-together designs. French designer and LVMH Prize winner Marine Serre is another name to know in the world of upcycled denim. Marine uses deadstock to create her jackets, jeans and skirts, firing lasers at them to add her signature moon motif. Grace tells us there’s more to come, too: “We have a couple of new brands coming for SS23, which I am really excited about, so watch this space!”

How to make your jeans last

“The secret is to find a brand that works for you. Every brand fits differently and you’ve got to look for the perfect match,” says Grace Neal. A good pair of jeans can last you years (if not centuries), even as trends fluctuate from flares to skinnies and then back again to bootcuts. Both of our buyers advise taking time to find what works for your style and your body. Rather than focussing solely on trends, Grace’s advice is to “find your perfect fit, combined with a classic wash, and they’ll last you a lifetime”.

For Grace Neal, research is key to finding the pair that you’ll want to wear until the knees bust. “Know how you want to wear your denim, whether it’s casual or dressed up. I take inspiration from Instagram or Pinterest.” She also recommends calling on our in-store denim gurus. “You can book denim appointments with our experts. I would advise going with an image of what style you are going for and they can find you the perfect jeans.”

Our buyers’ keep-forever pairs

“My favourites are high-waisted, cropped jeans from Frame in a washed-blue rinse,” says Grace Kenny. “I’ve worn them endlessly for the past two years and they still look brand new.” Grace Neal has a few go-to styles that see her through the seasons, year in, year out. “A washed black pair is ideal for winter, and for spring, an ecru style in a straight fit. For this look, my favourites are The High N Tight by Frame, The Logan by Rag & Bone, The Baggy Tapered by Agolde, Eva by Citizens of Humanity and Good 90s by Good American. You also can’t go wrong with a classic straight fit – I wear mine with boots or trainers. My top pick would be The Cindy by Paige.”