Bottega Veneta’s Parakeet green, Loewe men’s nu-rave neons, JACQUEMUS’s rainbow of Bambino bags – this season, designers are continuing to flood collections with bright, optimistic colour, and the phrase borne from the boldness has been repeated far and wide: ‘dopamine dressing’. But does science support the headlines? Can we really harness fashion to feel better?
We spoke to Behavioural Psychologist specialising in Fashion, Professor Carolyn Mair PhD, author of The Psychology of Fashion and Founder of psychology.fashion, who explained that dopamine is often misunderstood. “It’s not the pleasure neurotransmitter that people think…dopamine gets boosted when it motivates us to seek a reward.” That reward may not always necessarily be good for us – dopamine is also involved in drug addiction, motivating the brain to seek out the next fix – but the good news is that, yes, it can be wielded via our wardrobe for positive effect. “If our reward is to get a good outcome from our interactions, our appearance, our best selves, then our dopamine is going to kick in and it’s going to give us that boost and motivate us towards getting that.”
The sunshine yellow dress that Emma Stone wore in 2016 film La La Land sparked similar conversations about the effects of colour on our mood. We often hear that yellow invokes happiness, while red begets romance, black embodies sophistication, orange floods us with joy – but ‘colour therapy’ isn’t quite so black and white. Here’s the catch: “The reason that colour can make us feel good depends on the cultural associations we have with that colour,” Professor Mair explains. “So, if we go back to the yellow ‘dopamine dressing’ dress, when we hear that over and over again, it becomes a belief that yellow makes us happy.” But the effects are variable. Whereas in Britain, red is often used to represent romance, in China it represents luck, and while black is customary for British funerals, in China it’s white. This lack of universality is where a single, prescriptive colour theory comes unstuck from science. However, Professor Mair explains, “the fact that colour can make us feel good does make sense when we think about the sociocultural associations we have with colours.” In other words, if we do learn to associate yellow (or green, or purple) with happiness, that can create a perfect placebo effect that will leave us and our clothes of whichever colour contented.