DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT:

RENLI SU

Interview: Raymond Yao. Words: Chekii Harling

The Chinese-born womenswear designer on her love of the British countryside, working with natural materials and how she celebrates Chinese New Year in London.

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT:

RENLI SU

Interview: Raymond Yao. Words: Chekii Harling

The Chinese-born womenswear designer on her love of the British countryside, working with natural materials and how she celebrates Chinese New Year in London.

With its romantic silhouettes and dreamy, feminine finishes reminiscent of Victorian-era clothing, Renli Su has garnered a widespread following both in China and the rest of the world. Since launching her eponymous brand in 2013, the Chinese-born designer has shown multiple collections at London Fashion Week, each exploring the complexities of identity. With influences spanning the history of working-class clothing in the 19th century to her childhood growing up by the seaside in China’s Fujian province and her love of the British countryside, the duality of Renli’s Chinese heritage and present-day Western surroundings heavily informs her work.

 

With Chinese New Year just around the corner, we caught up with Renli to discuss how both worlds inspire her designs and how she’ll be ringing in the new year in 2021.

What was the story behind your latest collection?

The SS21 collection was inspired by the ballet The Awakening of Flora. In Roman mythology, Flora represents nature and flowers; she particularly appealed to me because of her artistic and romantic sensibilities. Using ballet to tell the story adds another layer of theatricality, and I wanted to create a collection that’s rich in feelings and storytelling. ‘When surrounded by darkness, the light of love and happiness will overcome the storm’ is a sentence from the ballet that really touched me. I want to send this message to everyone during this very unusual time.

 

Where do you usually look for inspiration?  

I usually start with the protagonist. If I want to portray the adventure or metamorphosis of a girl, the character and her stories will often give me a lot. Nature, particularly flowers, forests and the ocean are also key sources of inspiration for me.

 

Why do you think your designs have become so popular in China?

In the past few years, I’ve noticed the emergence of a wider range of subcultures in China; fashion that Chinese citizens bought into in the past is no longer a true reflection of what they desire today. We have grown from a very homogenous society into something much more vibrant and expressive and are always seeking something new. I think the confidence to stay true to yourself as a designer is very important. In a crowded, noisy marketplace like China, it’s key not to get distracted by everything happening around you. 

 

When I moved to the UK, I fell in love with clothing from the Victorian era.

– Renli Su

What do you love about working with traditional craft techniques?

When I moved to the UK, I fell in love with vintage clothing from the Victorian era. Prior to this, my only understanding of vintage clothing came from information I found online. Visiting vintage fairs and learning more about it first-hand was such a formative experience for me.

 

What’s behind your decision to work with natural materials such as silk and cotton?

I like to work with organic materials such as cotton, linen and wool from particular eras and to reimagine them for today through my modern designs.

 

The Renli Su girl is talented, confident and easygoing.

– Renli Su

Who do you have in mind when you design? Who is the Renli Su wearer?

She’s always evolving, just like all of us. When I started designing for Renli Su, I was using my designs to communicate feelings and emotions and wanted my work to evoke this carefree sentiment to its wearers. Over time, the brand has developed a loyal following and the Renli Su identity has really come alive. I’d say a Renli Su girl is talented, confident and easygoing.

 

What’s been your greatest achievement since launching the brand?

When actress Romola Garai wore a Renli Su dress during an interview for her film Miss Marx, I was thrilled. I love how the movie is about the journey of a young, confident woman – echoing the story of Renli Su. Also, we don’t invest a lot in PR, but people are often able to capture our brand DNA right away – every time I see that I still feel extremely proud.

 

When did you move to the UK and what do you love about it?

I moved to London in 2010, so it’s been more than 10 years now, but I also really like the British countryside because of my love of nature.

 

How did you celebrate Chinese New Year last year?

I’m from Fujian so my family could be quite traditional. During Chinese New Year there are a lot of rituals and ceremonies. Last Chinese New Year I visited Shenzhen – spending the holiday in southern China is a lot of fun!

 

Where would you recommend celebrating Chinese New Year in London?

Spending Chinese New Year with friends in London is great. The majority of the Chinese community in London won’t be able to celebrate the New Year with family, so experiencing the festivity together with your bubble in London has almost become a new ritual.

 

Last Chinese New Year I visited Shenzhen – spending the holiday in southern China is a lot of fun!

– Renli Su

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