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Our Heritage
Using information and anecdotes taken from Shopping, Seduction and Mr Selfridge (Profile Books) by social historian and author Lindy Woodhead. Available in the Selfridges Book Shop, lower ground floor.
1856
Henry Gordon Selfridge – always called Harry by his family and friends – third and only surviving son of small-town store-keeper Robert Selfridge and his wife Lois, was born on 11 January 1856 in Ripon, Wisconsin, USA.
1879-1885
At the age of 23, Selfridge started work in the wholesale division of Field & Leiter, Chicago’s leading department store, owned by millionaire Marshall Field and his business partner, Levi Leiter. Transferring to the retail division in 1885 – by which time Marshall Field had sole control of the store – Harry led the shopping revolution taking place in the booming city.
1885-1890
Nicknamed Mile-a-Minute Harry, Selfridge surged through the store as brightly as the new invention of electricity. His innovations included:
- Lighting the store windows at night
- Opening Chicago’s first store restaurant where women would lunch un-chaperoned
- Fitting luxurious ladies cloakrooms – the first in any Chicago department store
- Introducing displays on tables and counters at customer-friendly waist level.
1893-1905
For a decade, Selfridge worked with Daniel Burnham on developments that turned Marshall Field into the largest store in the world. Craving more recognition for initiatives that had helped Field’s become a retailing phenomenon, in 1903, Harry Selfridge left to establish his own retail empire.
After a few unfulfilled months running his own store – H.G. Selfridge & Co – Harry abruptly sold out to Carson, Pirie & Scott. At the age of 49, he retired a wealthy man. Believing life was an adventure still to be lived, he headed for Europe where he had set his sights on opening his own dream store in the largest, richest city in the world – London.
15 March 1909
With his innate understanding of the value of publicity, Harry masterminded the elaborate opening advertising campaigns. From the moment the curtains lifted to reveal American visual display artist Edward Goldsman’s exquisitely designed windows, the crush was so large it took thirty police officers to hold back the crowds.
25 July 1909
In the new era of flight, by successfully completing the journey from Calais to Dover, Louis Bleriot became the first aviator to fly over water. His fragile plane was put on show in Selfridges for four days, drawing crowds of over 150,000. Never in the history of shopping had visiting a department store been so exciting.
Gordon Selfridge had truly established the theatre of retail and from then on, if a topic or trend was new, exciting, entertaining – or sometimes just eccentric – Selfridges would always showcase it first.
1910
Nothing stood still at Selfridges where the Chief said: "I am prepared to sell anything from an aeroplane to a cigar." In 1910 – in a move that altered the shape of retail space for ever – he opened a beauty department inside the ground floor entrance area, where the seductive smell of scent disguised the less appealing smell of manure from horse-drawn buses and delivery vans crowding Oxford Street.
The Selfridges transport fleet delivered goods throughout London three times daily. The 50 horse-drawn vans were soon to be outnumbered by 65 Halley petrol vans and 11 electric Edison vans.
1911-1913
Aimed at what the store described as thrifty housewives, the Bargain Basement opened in 1911. Merchandise on show was just as carefully displayed as on the upper floors – Selfridges having the knack of mixing the exclusive with the everyday.
Variety was always the name of the store's game. In 1911 came the biggest bookshop in the world and in 1912, a pet department where pride of place went to the Chief's favoured pugs.
In 1913 it was dance time as the tango hit town and world-famous dancers Florence Walton and Maurice Mouvet – who made the daring dance all the rage – performed for 2,000 revellers at a charity ball on the store's roof terrace.
1914-1918
At the outbreak of war, as men enlisted, women stepped up to fill their jobs. At Selfridges, they cleaned windows, drove the delivery vans, operated the lifts, formed a fire brigade – and even stoked the store's huge boilers. Fund raising events included a charity bazaar where society beauty Lady Diana Manners and friends became shop assistants for the day, while a War Bond promotion raised a staggering million pounds for the Government.
In making huge efforts to give special service to the public, it was, as Gordon Selfridge said in the phrase the store made famous: Business as Usual.
1920-1924
By now living in the Berkeley Square mansion Lansdowne House, a popular song earned Gordon Selfridge the nickname the Earl of Oxford Street.
The company acquired several important stores outside London, as well as starting construction on the western extension in Oxford Street.
As the high-octane jazz-age Twenties unfurled, Selfridges – completely in tune with the spirit of the era – sold everything from newly-fashionable red lipstick to imported Pogo Sticks. In 1922 alone, over 15 million people shopped in the store.
1925-1926
During events to celebrate the store's 16th birthday in 1925, Scottish inventor John Logie Baird demonstrated history in the making by showing his televisor.
Selfridges would later lead the way in selling televisions, but at a time when music really mattered, radio ruled and the store's new department could barely keep up with the demand.
The media were slow on the uptake to support the concept of television. When Logie Baird took his machine to the Daily Express, the editor said: “For God's sake, go down to Reception and get rid of a lunatic who's down there. He says he's got a machine for seeing by wireless! Watch him – he may have a razor on him!”
1926-1929
With the formation of the Gordon Selfridge Trust in 1926, Selfridge and his son Gordon Jr – by now a director – became millionaires.
In 1927, Selfridges bought Whiteley's of Bayswater. Further store acquisitions – from Cole Brothers in Sheffield
to C.J. Harvey's in Leeds – meant that by 1929 Selfridges was the largest retail group in Europe.
Meanwhile, Architectural Design Magazine called the newly completed Oxford Street flagship "the most imperial building in London."
1930-1935
With the impact of Wall Street's dramatic collapse not yet felt in Europe, the store confidently promoted its 21st birthday in its usual extravagant style. The magnificent clock The Queen of Time was installed in 1931 – but time was running out for big spending.
With consumer confidence plunging and recession fast turning into The Great Depression, Selfridges supported the plea made by the Prince of Wales to 'Buy British'.
The store's own Silver Jubilee earned Gordon Selfridge accolades. "He has not merely transformed Oxford Street into one of the world's finest shopping centres", wrote Drapers Record. "He gave a lead to the entire store trade."
With his usual disregard for budgeting, Gordon Selfridge celebrated the King's Silver Jubilee in 1935 with the most sumptuous exterior décor ever seen on a building in Great Britain.
1936-1939
By 1936, the store's bankers and investors – alarmed at the debts run up by their flamboyant Chairman – obliged him to invite Mr Andrew Holmes onto the board of directors.
Now living at Brook House, Park Lane, Selfridge's personal fortune had all but vanished – much of it on reckless gambling and expensive women.
The country awaited the Coronation of King Edward VIII – but in vain. At the end of 1937, when news broke of his abdication to marry American divorcee, Wallis Simpson – a favoured store customer – it caused pandemonium.
Selfridge clung onto power. But in October 1939, he too was exiled. At the age of 83, thirty years after revolutionising London's retailing, deeply in debt to the store – and owing thousands in taxes – Gordon Selfridge was forced to retire with the nominal title of 'President'. In 1941, that too was removed. He left his Park Lane apartment, and the man known as the showman of shopping spent his last years living in Ross Court, Putney, cared for by his devoted daughter.
1940-1946
Mr Holmes – by now Chairman and Managing Director – presided over the dismantling of the original Selfridge & Co. Ltd. With the re-structuring of the ailing business, the provincial stores were sold to the John Lewis Partnership.
In Oxford Street, the store building survived the war comparatively unscathed – although the Blitz destroyed the famous roof gardens, which never re-opened to the public again. Flooding put the lifts out of action for the duration, while further bombing destroyed the Palm Court Restaurant. The ground floor windows – deemed too dangerous to be exposed – were bricked up.
A Doodle Bug (V.2 bomb) smashed into Duke Street in 1944, narrowly avoiding the main store. Flooding impacted
on the activities of the top-secret U.S. Army Signal Corps Telecommunications system code-named SIGSALY, installed deep in Selfridges sub-basement.
1947
As people throughout Britain struggled to cope in the coldest winter since records began, shopping for anything other than basic necessities was virtually impossible. The country was deep in power cuts – and even deeper in snow. Newspapers were confined to just four pages, and holidays abroad were banned.
In May that year, Harry Gordon Selfridge died peacefully in his sleep at the age of 91.
1950-1955
In July 1951, Selfridges was sold for £3.4 million to the Liverpool-based food and fashion retailing group, Lewis's Investment Trust.
As shopping slowly emerged from post-war economic gloom and the rigours of rationing, newly-affluent Fifties families craved big ticket consumer goods. Men wanted cars. Women wanted refrigerators and washing machines – while families everywhere wanted a television set.
Early ventures into pre-war television technology and innovations in household appliances had enabled Selfridges to form strong relationships with key suppliers – useful in the increasingly competitive retail arena. In 1953, when it was announced that Queen Elizabeth II's Coronation would be televised, sales of sets surged.
Selfridges continued their theme of using exterior décor to commemorate great Royal occasions. A model of the young Queen on her horse was the focal point of an extravaganza which included selling a huge selection of Coronation souvenirs to tempt the millions of visitors who thronged Oxford Street, eager to celebrate the dawning of what the press called 'The New Elizabethan Age'.
1965-1969
Selfridges was given a desperately needed make-over. In the youth-led fashion boom of the Sixties the store – under the direction of Winifred Sainer – opened Miss Selfridge in 1966. With its own entrance in Duke Street, a mezzanine
coffee bar, specially mixed music and an exclusive Pierre Cardin department, Miss Selfridge was a bold gesture by a big department store to challenge the rise of small, fashion boutiques.
In 1969, the store's 60th birthday – its Diamond Jubilee – was celebrated with a lot of the old flair. Exhibitions of jewels drew crowds, while major cosmetics brands like Orlane and Charles of the Ritz created exclusives for the store.
1970s
Building development included the Selfridge Hotel, which opened in 1972. Within two years, London would be off the tourist map as Britain was affected by industrial turmoil and the intensifying of IRA activity. In December 1974, Selfridges was bombed. There were very few injuries amongst the shoppers and staff and by the next day, it was 'business as usual.'
"Television is here," Gordon Selfridge had said when he launched the store's ground-breaking inter-active studio in 1939. "You can't ignore it." By the Eighties – the decade when shopping went turbo-charged – it was propelled on its way by the weekly fix of TV's Dallas and Dynasty. At the time when fashion on the box was about big hair, big shoulders – and big budgets – Selfridges became the first British department store to advertise on television.
1985-1996
Many once-great major stores around the world stagnated during the Eighties retail revolution, losing ground to the surge of international designer flagship shops. The threat of extinction was in the air for what some critics were calling 'the dinosaur department stores.'
In 1992, Sears Holdings created a £94 million re-development programme for Selfridges. This would pave the way for the store's de-merger from its parent company ahead of the 1998 flotation on the Stock Exchange. Overseen by Managing Director Tim Daniels, the towering atrium escalators, and the yellow carrier bags – now a symbol of Selfridges – were put in place. But the renaissance of the store as a destination for shopping experience came with the appointment of Vittorio Radice in 1996.
1997-2002
In the six years he spent at the store, Vittorio Radice is acknowledged to have re-vitalised the great slumbering space that was Selfridges. "Shopping is entertainment," said Radice. "It's not just about the product, but about the smile, the packaging, the whole ambience."
Before long, the yellow carrier was to become the hottest accessory in town – and not just in London. Selfridges opened a store in Trafford Park, Manchester in 1998, followed by the Exchange Square store in Manchester's city centre in 2002. A multi-million pound store in Birmingham designed by radical architects Future Systems opened in 2003.
2003-present day
The spirit of innovation and entertainment that led to the early success of Selfridges has been given renewed energy and expression since Canadian food and specialist retail businessman Galen Weston and his family bought Selfridges in 2003.
Galen Weston is Chairman of the Selfridges Group Limited which includes Holt Renfrew in Canada, Brown Thomas in Ireland and de Bijenkorf in The Netherlands.
He and his wife Hilary are closely involved in the development and growth of Selfridges. Their daughter Alannah is Creative Director and drives the vision of providing the ultimate customer experience.
Selfridges Group Limited is run by Managing Director Paul Kelly and Selfridges UK is run by Managing Director Anne Pitcher.
The most recent years have seen significant investment being made in the stores. In Oxford Street the splendour of the Grade II listed building has been restored and updated to create a striking backdrop for contemporary retail design, such as the Wonder Room – launched in 2007 and The Shoe Galleries launches in 2010. In several areas, including the Designer Rooms, the windows have been opened up and natural light flooded in.
If Gordon Selfridge's revolutionary illuminated window displays shone like a beacon on murky London nights, today's installations are known around the world for their creativity and wit. The award-winning flair of the in-house team, sometimes collaborating with artists and designers, ensures the great tradition of window display flourishes.
Retail entertainment was invented at Selfridges and now has a distinctly twenty-first century flavour. All that is dazzling, daring, stylish and cool has its place in the store's year-round programme, centred on The Ultralounge, 3,000 sq ft of space dedicated to the arts.
The commercial success of Selfridges has been coupled with accolades: Best Multiple Retailer (Drapers Awards 2008); Best Retailer (Visit London People's Choice Awards 2008); Store of the Decade (Retail Interiors Awards 2008), culminating in Best Department Store in the World 2010.
Selfridges today is in a vibrant, energetic era that adds a new dimension – totally in tune with the legacy of Gordon Selfridge.
