Our buyers’ guide
to shopping secondhand

Words: Georgia Graham

Our buyers’ guide to shopping secondhand

Words: Georgia Graham

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Want to know a secret? Designers love shopping secondhand. In fact, it’s where many of them get their ideas. Visit any designer’s studio, and, chances are, you’ll see rare clothing from seasons or decades past, hanging alongside moodboards and fabric swatches, ready to be reworked anew.

We can apply the same logic to our personal style. Fashion is cyclical, but rather than shopping brand-new, a more sustainable way to revive your wardrobe or your interior is to mix in pieces from the past – whether you’re looking to recreate Y2K, are more of a 90s minimalist or just want to update your unique-to-you aesthetic. Here, our Selfridges experts share their advice on how to shop secondhand.

Want to know a secret? Designers love shopping secondhand. In fact, it’s where many of them get their ideas. Visit any designer’s studio, and, chances are, you’ll see rare clothing from seasons or decades past, hanging alongside moodboards and fabric swatches, ready to be reworked anew.

We can apply the same logic to our personal style. Fashion is cyclical, but rather than shopping brand-new, a more sustainable way to revive your wardrobe or your interior is to mix in pieces from the past – whether you’re looking to recreate Y2K, are more of a 90s minimalist or just want to update your unique-to-you aesthetic. Here, our Selfridges experts share their advice on how to shop secondhand.

Secondhand becomes second-nature

 

For Creative Projects Manager Kurtis Liddle, one of the team behind The Edit by RESELFRIDGES – our curated secondhand collection at all Selfridges stores – it’s the surprise factor and quality of pre-loved pieces that appeals. “I always find the novelty of secondhand to be much longer lasting, especially combined with the mindset that it’s already stood the test of time.” Quality is also a factor, says Isobelle Wright, RESELFRIDGES Accessories Buyer. “The craftsmanship and materiality on many older pieces is second to none. You also have access to unicorn and rare pieces, for example the Fendi ‘Mamma’ baguette, which was discontinued in the early 00s.” For Natasha Advani, Selfridges’ Head of Menswear Buying, the appeal lies in the fact that no one is wearing the same thing as you. Advani is also the founder of LA-based vintage T-shirt brand Not/Applicable, whose fans include Travis Scott, Cardi B and Lil Uzi Vert. “The motto of Not/Applicable is acknowledging the past while considering the future. It’s also about owning a piece of history.”

 

“The craftsmanship and materiality on many older pieces is second to none. You also have access to unicorn and rare pieces, for example the Fendi ‘Mamma’ baguette, which was discontinued in the early 00s.”

Isobel Wright, Accessories Buyer


A long-term investment

 

Added value is also a factor when it comes to investing in quality secondhand. “[These] pieces will inevitably grow in emotional value, and sometimes monetary value, too,” says Kurtis. “I always find it interesting to see which pieces become future fashion grails as taste and trends evolve.” Natasha agrees: “I’ve seen some iconic tour merch pieces go for six or seven times the original sale price, due to the desirability of these one-off or rare items.” The key thing to look for is quality design, advises Eleanor Gregory, Home Buying Manager. “The passing of time can have an impact on an item’s desirability, but this is always underpinned by good design. A perfect example is early 80s and 90s IKEA from designers like Niels Gammelgaard and Anne Nilsson, which is now super collectible.”

 

"The passing of time can have an impact on an item’s desirability, but this is always underpinned by good design. A perfect example is early 80s and 90s IKEA from designers like Niels Gammelgaard and Anne Nilsson, which is now super collectible.”

Eleanor Gregory, Home Buying Manager

What to look for

 

“Look for pieces you’ve always wanted and ones that have iconic status, as they will hold their value,” advises Menswear Buyer Yasmin Mehmet. “Sizing can vary massively on vintage products, so you’ll need to set aside some time to try items on.” If you find something you love but it’s not quite the right size, you can also get it tailored or altered to fit.

“Buy an investment piece and make sure it feels true to you,” says Natasha. “If you grew up listening to rock’n’roll and heavy metal, then a cool Metallica or Nirvana tee may be good for you.”

Part of the appeal of buying secondhand is that it’s better for the environment, but it’s still important to reduce waste by investing in items you’ll love long-term. “When bringing secondhand into your home, I’d advise starting with something decorative and functional,” says Eleanor. “When a piece has a use as well as being desirable, you’re much more likely to keep it for longer.”

 

“Buy an investment piece and make sure it feels true to you. If you grew up listening to rock’n’roll and heavy metal, then a cool Metallica or Nirvana tee may be good for you.”

Natasha Advani, Selfridges Head of Menswear Buying and founder of Not/Applicable

How to style secondhand

 

When it comes to interior decor, mixing old and new is easier than you may think. “Often, current designers are inspired by past design aesthetics, so styling secondhand with new is often very simple. If you’re unsure, try adopting a common theme, which can help collections sit well together – for example, a tonal colour palette or material,” says Eleanor.

For Natasha, her celebrity fans frequently show us how it’s done. “One of my clients in LA, the NBA player James Harden, bought a Lil’ Kim tee and wore it with a brand-new Louis Vuitton runway suit and trousers. That’s a great example of how you can style vintage with new-season luxury.”

“Styling new and pre-loved together is the most fun part of shopping secondhand,” says Kurtis. “You can reference endless different eras or subcultures and curate a unique look, especially amid the renaissance of eclecticism we’re seeing in fashion now.”

 

“Styling new and pre-loved together is the most fun part of shopping secondhand. You can reference endless different eras or subcultures and curate a unique look, especially amid the renaissance of eclecticism we’re seeing in fashion now.”

Kurtis Liddle, Creative Projects Manager, Buying

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