“everyone looks good in armani”

It was radical. Armani blurred the lines between the sexes and is still, four decades on, the go-to reference point for gender-fluid tailoring. How do you see this new collection in the context of today, and why is now the right moment to launch it?

“The whole notion of gender fluidity, which is so current, is something I’ve been incorporating into my work for decades. I have, and have always had, a very particular personal vision, and this is based on an elegant and refined aesthetic where gender is less of a signifier than material, cut and colour. So this new collection is simply an expression of my long-standing approach and design philosophy, and not a response to the times.”

There’s a softness to the power of Armani tailoring. How do you achieve that, and how much does it rely on the sensibility of the wearer?

“It comes from design and engineering – from actively seeking to soften and relax the sartorial tradition. It’s not easy to create garments that look chic and smart but are also extremely comfortable, but that has been my aim and still is. It’s interesting you use the word ‘power’, as in the 80s, tailoring was considered a key part – the key part – of the power dressing wardrobe. But yes, I believe in soft power. In giving the wearer a sartorial solution that makes them look their best, while also keeping them comfortable. In this sense, my job is to enhance the appearance and character of the wearer, never to overwhelm or disguise. So that is why it is often said that everyone looks good in Armani. You bring yourself to the garments, and they complement you. You wear them. They don’t wear you.”

Who have you enjoyed dressing the most and why?

“I have dressed so many wonderful people over the years, from Julia Roberts, Nicole Kidman and Cate Blanchett for the Oscars, to Beyoncé and Lady Gaga; and, of course, there have been so many men too – Leonardo DiCaprio, Robert De Niro, George Clooney, Samuel L. Jackson and many more. The truth is, I like to dress people who genuinely appreciate my style. And I can say that many of these people have become friends. One very special moment, which I don’t think Jodie Foster will mind me sharing, as she tells the story herself, was helping her move from being voted ‘worst dressed’ at the 1989 Oscars to ‘best dressed’ a few years later. I gave her a white beaded pantsuit to wear and she looked great; I did the alterations myself and was delighted with the result.”

You’re famously anti-trend. What are your thoughts on ‘quiet luxury’, and how does it feel to see everyone talking about it?

“I think quiet luxury is simply a different way to say understatement, which is a term that has always been associated with my collections. I like the quiet elegance exuded by an understated style. That is what I strive to achieve as a designer. I always aim to create looks that complement the personality of the wearer – authentic outfits rather than costumes, something that they feel truly comfortable in. Today, more than ever, I am convinced that we have to move away from exaggeration, not only in the way we dress but in everyday life in general. I have always believed in understatement and that it is the most radical choice one

can make.”

You described your forties as “the beginning”. How would you describe your eighties, and what have you learnt from the past decade?

“My life has been one of so many beginnings that I consider myself very fortunate. This is, naturally, about having a curious state of mind. I have never become complacent and am always pushing myself and challenging myself. I do this no less now than when I started my business, and what I have learnt along the way – and this holds for the past decade and all those preceding it – is that if you have passion and a vision and you apply yourself every day then you will always be energised.”

What’s been your biggest achievement as a designer so far?

“I suppose you could say that I have managed to create an Armani lifestyle, which is something I always dreamed of. Extending an aesthetic philosophy from clothes and accessories to fragrances, interiors, cafés, restaurants, hotels - even flowers and chocolates - has been a fascinating journey, and I believe I have pioneered the idea that a fashion designer can create such a universe. But when it comes to what I will be remembered for, I believe this will be all about the unstructured jacket. Ever since I started deconstructing tailoring for both men and women in the 80s, I have returned to this one idea repeatedly – that a tailored garment should be comfortable and relaxed so that the wearer feels comfortable and relaxed, as this will inspire confidence. Back in the early days of Armani, tailoring was still made in an old-fashioned way and felt restrictive. I experimented with removing pads and lining, and employing the new lighter-weight materials that were being developed at the time, and created a jacket that felt more like a piece of knitwear than a piece of armour. That was, I genuinely believe, something of a revolution, and has not only changed the way people dress but also how they think about their clothes. You can see the legacy of this shift today, as we now demand comfort from our clothes as standard – and the consequence of this development is that streetwear and sportswear have become adopted as part of the everyday wardrobe by so many.”

What’s your one piece of advice for living a big life?

Be yourself. Follow your passion. Stick to your beliefs. Dare to dream.

Shop Giorgio Armani’s exclusive unisex tailoring online and in store at Selfridges London, on 1.