The perfect: Sneakers

Sebastian Manes – Selfridges Executive Director

Sebastian Manes is a staunch sneakers supporter with an envious collection that you will spot in the Selfridges boardroom, at fashion weeks across the world, and pushing down the pedals on his other favourite collector’s item: vintage cars.

What stands out for you when it comes to a great pair of sneakers?

Design and rarity are the main factors.

Favourite pair of sneakers?

I have a few…. For comfort, you need a pair of Yeezy Boost 350 V1s – they’re arguably the most comfortable sneakers on the planet! I have a pair of red Louis Vuitton x Kanye West sneakers which are really rare (not many people know that before Yeezy, Kanye collabed with LV!). Being a fan of Rick Owens, I have the Rick Owens x adidas Blade Runner. The Nike Air Force 1 by A-COLD-WALL* is great too – the minimal aesthetic goes very well with a black suit.
 

What does your sneaker collection look like at home?

All of my sneakers are in drawers; I don’t keep the boxes as I buy to wear. I never think about resale. Sneakers, for me, are like classic cars – you want to drive them, not keep them as garage queens!
 

What sneakers are currently in your selfridges.com wish list?

Vejas are a must-have, plus the Comme des Garçons Converse polka-dot high-tops, and Yeezy 500s in suede and neoprene.

Zarah Cheng – Editor-in-Chief of HYPEBAE

As Editor-in-Chief of HYPEBAE (HYPEBEAST’s women-focussed extension site), Zarah Cheng has a bird’s-eye view on contemporary popular culture, sneaker-drop hype, and up-and-coming fashion and design talent.

What are the markers of a great pair of sneakers?

Something timeless and versatile. I like finding sneakers that can be paired with any outfit, whether it be shorts or trousers. Of course, comfort is also key!
 

Most prized sneakers in your collection?

I think my Martine Rose x Nike Air Monarch IV sneakers are definitely my favourite. I actually don’t wear them that often, but I’ve always been obsessed with the design. They’re almost uncomfortable to look at because the bulbous protrusions are a little unsettling, but I just can’t stop staring at them whenever I wear them.
 

What do you wear most often?

Right now, it’s the ASICS GEL-1090 in white. Living in Hong Kong requires a lot of walking, so an everyday sneaker in this city needs to be really comfortable. My grandma used to wear these triple black ASICS trainers, so I’ve always just associated ASICS with comfort. I also really like the 1090 silhouette because of its retro aesthetic – channelling a Princess Di style moment.
 

As Editor-in-Chief at HYPEBAE, is there a sneaker drop that stands out for you that your readers went crazy for?

I remember when the FILA Disruptor II blew up in 2018. This one really stands out for me because it was just so incredibly random. FILA sneakers had never really been on our radar, but all of a sudden we were constantly seeing sneaker shots of the Disruptor II on Instagram, and readers were just going crazy for every colourway we covered. I feel like the hype has died down since then, but it was definitely a massive trend that year.

Aman Tak – Senior Buyer & Collaborations Designer at Offspring

Sneaker obsessive Aman Tak has been a senior buyer and collaborations designer at Offspring for over 15 years.

What are the key design elements of a good sneaker?

Great design will stand the test of time. Models like Air Max 1, Superstar, Converse All Star – they’re all as relevant today as they were then. Simplicity and quality are key. This has allowed these models to take on new colours and materials each season, re-energising them each time.
 

What’s your most stand-out career moment?

Just creating a product from concept to retail and seeing it sell out! Whether it’s working within the team or with external partners, the journey is the best part. Getting to work and meet like-minded people who are helping you reach the end goal.

Have customers’ sneaker-buying habits shifted over your time as a buyer?

Footwear is still being consumed at a rapid rate, it’s just the product type that’s changed. In the early days, it was about acquiring sneaker colours that weren’t available in the UK, regardless of any hype attached to them. Over time, brands changed strategies and demand shifted to wanting the latest and greatest, whether that’s a collaboration or a sneaker with a story attached to it. I also think people aren’t pigeon-holing themselves into one look now. They’re wearing sports brands but also investing in designer footwear like Balenciaga and Gucci – something that they probably wouldn’t have done in the past to the levels they are now.
 

What excites you about the future of sneakers?

Innovation is something I look forward to seeing. With the environment being high on the agenda, it’s amazing to see how brands are reacting to this and looking to make positive impacts – from the way they operate to the product they produce.

Cassius Hirst – Artist & sneaker customiser

Son of contemporary artist Damien Hirst, Cassius has developed his own creative outlet, using the classic Nike Air Force 1 sneaker as his canvas. His spray-painted designs have a cult following, with A$AP Rocky, Samuel Ross of A-COLD-WALL* and Virgil Abloh (who since collaborated with him on a limited-edition line of Air Force 1s) all counted as fans of his work.

How would you define the perfect sneaker?

I think the perfect sneaker is more of an idea than a reality. I like clean and simple sneakers, but I also love the messy and chaotic pairs. Maybe I’m too young to know what my perfect sneaker is, maybe one day I’ll find it.
 

How did you go from customising for friends to a business collaborating with Virgil Abloh?

I got into painting shoes around two years ago; I’d seen people doing it online and felt it’d be fun to have a go. Initially, I gave pairs to friends and family but eventually began exploring the best designs to incorporate into the shoes. I assume that Virgil could see that I was taking my art seriously and could see the potential of it all, so I was pretty pleased to see him invest in my ideas and give me the opportunity to collaborate.
 

What is it about the AF1 that makes it a brilliant canvas?

The leather has a great texture up close. It’s perfect as a canvas because it’s constructed simply in comparison to a lot of the shoes on the market nowadays but still has an amazing silhouette. Definitely a great shoe to paint on – I wouldn’t recommend leather paints, though; acrylic spray paints work best for me.

Fenn O’Meally – Journalist & Director

What do you look for in a great sneaker?

I’m really into a chunky sneaker; that’s why I love so many AGC pieces, as well as my Acne suede platforms. For me, it’s all about beautiful and original form – something that’s subtly innovative. I have a pair of the ASICS x Kiko Kostadinov sneakers that I’m obsessed with – they’re so satisfying to wear – and I always clock people staring at them! Probably because they’re so unusual.

How do you view sneaker culture today?

Coming from a very sport-orientated family, sneakers have always been a part of our wardrobes, so I wouldn’t say we’ve become more invested, because we always have been! But what I do really appreciate about today is the growing voice of women in sneaker culture. It used to be very much a boys’ club. The one thing I’d love to see happen is the growth of dual-gender sizing.

Of everyone you’ve interviewed or directed, whose trainer collection would you most want to rifle through?

I got to shoot Spike Lee earlier this year, so without a doubt his. The stories! I always wonder whether he still owns those Air Jordans from She’s Gotta Have It in 1986.

Myles O’Meally – Footwear Developer and Designer

Tell us about your trainer collection.

Having worked at Nike for 5 years, my trainer collection is 99% Nike! This is a balance I’m starting to adjust, though. For me, what makes a good trainer are elements that show attention to the details, whether that be through colour, material or construction. I’m especially drawn to functional details.
 

How did you get into footwear development, and what do you love about it?

I’ve always loved product and have been interested in how things are made from a very young age. I studied a master’s in engineering design and this is what really focussed my passion. The most fulfilling part is moving from final design through to the sample development stages: working with the factory team through the sample rounds, solving problems, fine-tuning and improving to arrive at a final product that meets our original design and functional objectives. I really enjoy being in the factory, working hands-on with the team.

How do you walk the line between functionality and creativity?

I’m naturally more focussed on the functionality and build of the product. My creativity comes in achieving functionality within a design-led process. Although I’m led by function, I don’t believe [creativity] should be sacrificed. I enjoy the challenge of achieving true functionality within beautiful design.

Shaun Donnelly – Head of Buying External Brands at Kurt Geiger

Shaun Donnelly has worked with the biggest sneaker brands in the world as Head of Buying at Kurt Geiger.

What does the perfect sneaker mean to you?

As an avid sneaker fan, that’s a great question and almost impossible to answer! The beauty of sneakers is that the idea of the perfect pair would be different to the next person. Without trying to sound cheesy, knowing whether a sneaker is perfect is instinctive – you just know the moment they’re on your feet.
 

Favourite sneaker, ever?

My all-time favourite is the Air Jordan 6 ‘Infrared’, released in 1991 when I was in junior school. I begged my mom for a pair for Christmas. While my friends were asking for toys, I knew I had to have those sneakers! I would take them to school in the box, proudly displaying them to my friends. More recently, it would be the Balenciaga Triple S. The first time I saw them in the showroom, I knew they’d be a game-changer. They really pushed the boundaries in terms of design.
 

What’s the magic formula when it comes to buying or designing great sneakers?

I think the best design is disruptive. Breaking the mould and taking a chance outside of market trends. First instinct is generally the best way to end up with the perfect sneaker. Don’t overcomplicate things – if a sneaker is jumping off the shelf, go with your gut.