designer spotlight

Jonathan Anderson

Words: Chekii Harling

We spoke to the Creative Director of LOEWE to explore his early inspirations and how he’s seeking to sustain creativity and craftsmanship for the future

designer spotlight

JONATHAN ANDERSON

Words: Chekii Harling

We spoke to the Creative Director of LOEWE to explore his early inspirations and how he’s seeking to sustain creativity and craftsmanship for the future

Undoubtedly one of the busiest names in fashion, Jonathan Anderson is redefining modern luxury as a celebration of artisan craftsmanship, helping to establish a community where the artist, fashion designer and maker work hand in hand. From his namesake label, JW Anderson, to his much-celebrated work as Creative Director at LOEWE, Anderson’s collections speak of an unbridled creative vision and a care for every stitch, finish and feature.

Here we speak to Anderson about his love affair with LOEWE’s heritage, his early influences and how to nurture and sustain a culture of creativity.

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LOEWE AW20 backstage

Your father was a rugby player and your mother a teacher, how has this informed your work as a creative director?

When you grow up with a father who is a sportsperson, competition is always something that is inherent. I’m hoping that I have gained a bit of balance between the two: my mother is a bit more emotional, my father’s a bit more reactionary.

Jonathan Anderson and the LOEWE team in Paris February 2020, courtesy of LOEWE

You spent some time training to become an actor, how has this influenced your creative practice?

As an actor, you build the character in your head to believe in it. Within fashion, there must always be an element of fantasy and an element of believability, just like acting.

In fashion, there always must be an element of fantasy and an element of believability.

– Jonathan Anderson

LOEWE Women’s AW20

What did working as a visual merchandiser at Prada teach you about the store experience?

I used to work as a sales associate, and then I went on to visual merchandising. I think what is important is that in fashion, there is always an end goal and the consumer is always first because, ultimately, they are the person who will tell you the truth. I go to the stores all the time because I feel like I need to understand the reality of the product.

What form does your personal art collection take?

It’s a bit of a mess! I’m turning into a bit of a hoarder – that’s probably how you’d describe it.

You created the LOEWE Foundation Craft Prize in 2016. Why is it important to pass the baton on to the next generation in this way?

If we don’t support people who make, we can’t sustain creativity in all industries.

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LOEWE AW20 backstage

Which innovations in craft are you most excited by right now?

There’s an amazing moment happening in Japan: the younger generation are really changing ceramics, probably because in Japan they have this amazing skill of protecting craft. Then there’s this concept of the shared generation, in passing on to the next, which I think is incredibly important. Individual craftspeople who are interesting me right now include Sarah Flynn, who is incredibly talented and Simon Kidd, who is very good. Then there’s Akiko Hirai, who was nominated in the 2019 LOEWE Foundation Craft Prize – she is really reinventing the moon jar [a type of traditional Korean porcelain].

LOEWE AW20 backstage

What does the next decade hold for your work?

I think it’s about sustaining realistic growth and sustaining creativity within longer periods of time. I have never believed in overnight success. For me, a new decade comes with new challenges; it is about continuing the journey while really solidifying what we’ve achieved in the last ten years, then modernising again.

I think it’s about sustaining realistic growth and sustaining creativity within longer periods of time.

– Jonathan Anderson

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LOEWE AW20 backstage

How does your background in menswear inform the womenswear you produce?

For me, I think both speak and learn from each other, and I always like to put a men’s sensibility into women’s and vice versa.

In your collections, you honour LOEWE’s extensive heritage while looking to the future. How do you maintain this balance?

The key is not to be nostalgic but to be informed by the past. You can take the weight of history on your shoulders but remember that LOEWE has always been modern within its periods, which is what it needs to continue to be.