Menswear past, present and future

What to collect from our current menswear collections

Words: Thea Bichard. Images: Sean Thomas

We all have those pieces that we’ve owned for years – maybe there’s a prized coat you dust off each winter, or a pair of boots that have softened and now fit you perfectly. That sense of returning to the classics, rewearing and revering is what’s guiding us right now, as we explore earth-conscious alternatives as part of our Project Earth initiative. For our countryside shoot, we plucked a few favourites from the AW20 collections, along with one-off, pre-loved pieces from our RESELLFRIDGES initiative, and found calm settings that match the contemplation and consciousness driving how we’ll be dressing this season and beyond. Now’s the time to seek out hard-wearing essentials, reclaimed treasures and exquisite craftsmanship – to coin an aptly well-worn phrase, think style and substance.

DRIES VAN NOTEN - Vornlow wool jacket / CRAIG GREEN - shirt (coming soon) / RICK OWENS - Oversized cotton-jersey T-shirt / GREG LAUREN - SCRAPWORK patchwork tapered cotton cargo trousers / JACQUEMUS - Le Gadjo leather wallet-on-strap / BALENCIAGA - croc-embossed boots (coming soon)
BOTTEGA VENETA - Quilted shell gilet / VALENTINO - embroidered shirt (coming soon) / DICKIES - Slim Straight 873 woven trousers / JACQUEMUS - hat (coming soon)
BOTTEGA VENETA - Quilted shell gilet / VALENTINO - embroidered shirt (coming soon) / DICKIES - Slim Straight 873 woven trousers / JACQUEMUS - hat (coming soon)

For a masterclass in the art of blending old with new – literally and figuratively – look to Daniel Lee’s ‘New Bottega’, where the house of Bottega Veneta’s decades-old intrecciato weaving technique is being fused with a contemporary outlook, as shown with this padded gilet that you’ll no doubt wear for countless winters to come. Let this approach inspire your styling, marrying old, new and borrowed: that aforementioned gilet, alongside the artisanal, beaded landscapes of Valentino’s work shirt and an all-American, decade-defying pair of Dickies trousers that were designed for hard graft (we defy you to wear those out). The combination of future heirlooms and everlasting workwear is irresistible.

Explore the new season

BY WALID - embroidered coat (coming soon) / DRIES VAN NOTEN - Calbroom oversized graphic-print cotton shirt / LOEWE - Tapered cotton-twill cargo trousers
THE SOLOIST - Patterned cotton-blend knitted cardigan / HELMUT LANG - jacket and trousers (coming soon) / SUNSPEL - Classic cotton-jersey T-shirt / BALENCIAGA - Rim patent-leather ankle boots

 

Our autumn/winter story offers up a three-fold approach to a more conscious shopping mindset. Here, classic menswear staples you can keep coming back to are mixed with new twists on hard-wearing workwear, collectable pieces you’ll love forever and plenty of our Project Earth offerings.

– Vincent Levy, Lead Menswear Stylist
CRAIG GREEN - Pre-loved worker jacket and trousers (coming soon as part of the RESELLFRIDGES initiative) / ACNE STUDIOS - Hawaiian shirt (coming soon)

Channel your inner collector, too. Some hoard stamps, others coins, but we all have our own fashion archives of styles we’ve treasured for countless years. Keep that collection in mind going forward, seeking out rare vintage finds and rarefied designs, such as the artsy coats many designers exhibited this season. Undercover’s Cindy Sherman collaboration is every bit as impactful as a gelatin-silver print (and far more convenient to carry), while By Walid’s frayed floral canvas of a coat is a literal one-off. To keep it from being too lofty, layer a Hawaiian shirt underneath – we bet you still have yours from last summer.

THE VINTAGE SHOWROOM - pullover jacket (available in store at Selfridges London) / PRIVATE POLICY - Harness-embellished cotton shirt and Detachable-pocket cotton-twill trousers / RICK OWENS DRKSHDW - Gilligan cotton-blend bucket hat
DRIES VAN NOTEN - Vornlow wool jacket / CRAIG GREEN - shirt (coming soon) / RICK OWENS - Oversized cotton-jersey T-shirt / GREG LAUREN - SCRAPWORK patchwork tapered cotton cargo trousers / JACQUEMUS - Le Gadjo leather wallet-on-strap / BALENCIAGA - croc-embossed boots (coming soon)

As for building on that archival mindset, you can go one of two ways. First, there are actual archive pieces – note the pre-loved jacket sourced by The Vintage Showroom, and the AW18 Craig Green worker jacket and trousers above that form part of our RESELLFRIDGES initiative. These are earth-conscious options and also offer a way to set your style apart by wearing hard-to-find or truly unique garments. Then, there are new designs destined to still be covetable in decades’ time. Helmut Lang’s pioneering minimalism feels as fresh now as it did in the 90s – in fact, we’re hosting a pop-up of archive Lang that you can explore here – so the label’s AW20 workwear-inspired jacket and trousers are investments that will no doubt pay dividends.

Explore the new season

A-COLD-WALL* - Reiss shell coat / BOTTEGA VENETA - polo shirt (coming soon) / CHARCOAL - T-shirt (coming soon) / ANN DEMEULEMEESTER - East floral-embroidered cropped woven trousers / BALENCIAGA - Chelsea boots (coming soon)
UNDERCOVER - Cindy Sherman-print coat (coming soon) / OVERLORD - Patchwork upcycled cotton overshirt and patchwork trousers (coming soon) / BALENCIAGA - Croc-embossed boots (coming soon)

The beauty of these pre-loved styles is that you get to enjoy the short-term buzz of hitting of-the-minute trends and the satisfaction of having something new-to-you to wear, while knowing there are also long-term gains to be won. Not just in terms of a well-curated wardrobe full of pieces you really care about, but also in helping to preserve the planet’s resources by shopping more consciously. That’s something to treasure, for sure.

Ready to style it out?

Book a virtual styling appointment with our experts. During your video call our team show you a specially curated edit of styles from the new season, helping you to discover the key pieces set to be your future wardrobe favourites. 

LET’S CHANGE THE WAY WE SHOP

Join us to discover the most exciting design innovations, retail concepts and thought-provoking ideas in sustainability, and explore our series of new commitments set to radically change our business as part of Project Earth.

Discover Project Earth