THE MASTERS’ GUIDE TO MODERN JEWELLERY

What inspires you?

I love creating pieces that have a story – little talismans that take on a new life with each wearer. I’m driven by the emotions I find in literature, photography and real people. 

How do you wear your own pieces?

I’m all about layers. I think that each piece is a chapter, and every day I layer different chapters to tell a unique story of how I’m feeling. I love wearing several chokers, intertwined together like the branches of an overgrown forest, intertwined with a life of their own. 

Tell us something we don’t know about your crafting process.

I make all the pieces out of wax, with a roman candle. This is how I started the brand, and it’s definitely not the ‘correct’ way of wax carving, but it’s still how I do it! 

What has been one of the biggest inspirations behind Panconesi?

Part of my inspiration is based on my interest in Greek mythology – these magical stories of human transformation, emotional transformation, or the body morphing into nature: a flower, water, a tree. I approach my work as a romantic. I think of how jewellery can embody this transformative quality on a human level via experimentation in craft. Jewellery should move you, more than just speaking of clarity, or cut, or grade, those traditional classifications.

Early on, Panconesi began with the simple idea of movement, starting with the Upside Down Hoop: a fluid gold line that’s now a signature. It’s a symbol that I go back to continuously as the brand grows because of its simple, yet transformative qualities. It signals a beginning but not necessarily an end – something continuously in dialogue with the wearer.

How do you approach creating jewellery that feels brand new?

The making of the Hybrid Stones [Panconesi’s process of dipping natural stones into molten enamel to create sculptural objects] was an experiment only realised with the Italian artisans that are part of my extended family. I bring ideas to them, and then we begin a process of collaboration almost into the unknown! They almost treat me like a frustrating son who brings the most challenging ideas to their table. Through trial and error, we experiment and develop special processes to create radical objects. In the end, it’s always fun and collaborative, and we always discover something new from working together.

How do you wear your own pieces?

My approach is very instinctive when it comes to wearing my own work. I stack them together and have fun with it. I like to wear a variety of materials and colours, sometimes mixing metals. Everything is designed to be worn in a few different ways, to feel easy and spontaneous.

What inspires you?

I’m attracted to reviewing classics; I like to reconsider and rethink designs. I’m also interested in creating a narrative, playing with tribal and ancestral memories.
 

How do you layer up your pieces?

The layering happens in the ‘pre-stacked’ items – they are sort of ready-made. And the concept of stacking is a key element of our designs. I play with symmetry and repetition, with each hand mirroring the other. Following the body being symmetrical, I find that very modern and elegant (and it’s, in fact, a very ancient way of wearing jewellery that I love to see in tribal remnants).

What does Repossi mean to you?
Repossi jewellery is not just jewellery pieces; it’s a second skin, and it lives with you.

What does Shaun Leane jewellery represent?

My original inspiration has always been the strength and fragility of nature. The tusk was one of the first pieces I made that is still apparent in my current collections. This silhouette resembles a beautiful part of nature – an elegant line that portrays the statement of power and protection. I design with an intention to tap into human emotion. When somebody looks or wears my work, I hope for it to trigger a part of them – an emotion, a memory or a feeling of confidence, love and joy. For me, that is the beauty of jewellery – it can serve as a constant memory of the journey.

How would you style up your jewellery?

I am a bit of a stickler for wearing the same colour, whether it be rose, yellow or white gold. I do, however, like to be inventive with materials, mixing leather, textures, enamel and stones. Layering white and black diamonds works beautifully.

What would you say is unique about your design technique?

Coming from traditional and classic training, my ethos has always been for our atelier to craft every piece to perfection by hand. One of the most important qualities that we pride ourselves on is our embrace of modern technology and how we can apply that to new or classic materials. This was an important lesson I learnt from my time working with my good friend, the late Lee Alexander McQueen. Having this approach has enabled me to explore new possibilities in design and execution. For me, the fusion of handmade and new technology allows me to create the ultimate modern classic jewellery.

What inspires each AMBUSH collection?

Realising ideas and learning drives me. I feel like every time we start a new collection, I’m learning about new fabrics and new materials. That then gives me ideas that I want to realise into real items that people can enjoy.

How do you style your own pieces?

I honestly have no rules; it all comes down to the mood of that day. When I want to feel more fierce, I pile on lots to feel like a warrior. Sometimes I want to feel low-key, so I stick to essentials like a simple pair of earrings, a necklace and a ring.

What’s the most important part of designing jewellery?

I like to approach design practically. Intellectualism is great, but I make items that people can actually wear, enjoy and enhance their vibe each day, not just exist in editorials or hung on a show window. For this reason, I’m the testing guinea pig for all the samples, and many times I design while I live in these pieces.

What’s the inspiration behind Hatton Labs?

Hatton Labs is inspired by London and the multitude of different creatives who inhabit it. Inspired by both old and new English styles and motifs, Hatton Labs is a melting pot of my life, our cultures and all my friends and family around me. I’m also driven to prove that good jewellery doesn’t have to cost an arm and a leg! Also, not all silver jewellery nowadays has to be silver-plated brass...

How do you like to style your own pieces?

I usually like to mix different lengths and widths of chains to create a stacking effect. I tend to wear our XL Chains at a length of 18” and our smaller classic range at 20”. I also like to go a bit Audrey Hepburn and throw in some pearls to break things up.

Tell us something we didn’t know about your creative process.

Everything is designed and created in London’s infamous jewellery district, Hatton Garden. From the Hatton Garden jewel robberies to Fagin’s den in Oliver Twist, our location truly is our biggest inspiration and what fuels our minds. Walking into these old London streets for me is similar to the moment when the Wizard of Oz turns to colour – it all just comes to life.